Hi Thanks for positive replies, after a bad year in 2012 I'm trying to motivate myself back into the swing of modelling, so the positive feedback will hopefully help motivate me back into this
Yes Col, the most of the models I've scratchbuilt, however the class 47 was more of a modification.
Also, if I buy a kit I will always alter & modify it in some way to make it 'unique' in some way.
Here's my scratchbuilt model of a derelict canal butty;
This project is loosely based on a photos of a barge/butty/boat (not sure exactly what it is, but based on photo's of a "derelict/renovation project" on the BCNS website.
I decided the boat would be 4mm=ft scale size of to approximately 45ft long x 8ft wide.
A duplicate was cut with centre rectangle cut out, at this stage I dont know if I'll be using that as I may use something else, but it gives me a general idea & guide.
Using Plastruct #90810 (6.4mm x 6.4mm) I cut & fitted "bulkheads".
Using my NWSL chopper, I cut approx 20 Evergreen #134 to 6.4mm length , I'll be using these for stiffeners, as seen on the photo's in link in above post)
Using the lid from a gravy granuals container, I made a small pool of Revel Contacta liqiud poly as to use tweezers to dip stiffenner components & position them onto 2 lengths of Plastruct #90749. (1mm x 6.4mm)
The gravy container lid is nylon or polypropolene (not sure which) but wont be melted by liquid poly solvent, Lids from Pringles tubs can also be used.
The re-enforced inner sides now fitted in,
I cut some 020" plasticard sheet for attaching the outer skin, but firstly, I needed to round those corners off so plasticard outer skin can go around slight curves.
I've noticed styrene has a tendency to bow & warp over time after poly solvents are used to weld various assemblies together.
So I'm using my clamps to hold each end down to the surface of my level workbench & with the clamps holding the boat steady, it also allows me to use both my hands to attatch the outer skin, when it came to going around the curves I needed both hands & fingers free to do this.
The above photo shows I've successfully gone around the curves of tapered end, I'm counting up to 30 seconds with my finger pressed on where I've applied Revel Contacta.
I cut down some thin brass strip as to make the buffer/gaurd for steering arm etc..,
then using a small bench vice & fine nose pliers, I bent the component into shape & offered it up for a good fit,
I started the other end deck detail, as seen above,
More photo's in a while,
---------- Post added at 02:18 ---------- Previous post was at 02:13 ----------
Continued from my above post, the assembly of componants,
A close up of detailing to the one end, notice also the slight dent to the gaurd where its taken a bashing, but I'll need to make dent a little more obvious (as based on the real one, as seen in photo's seen from a link I gave in a previous post)
Sprayed up with Halfords plastic primer (red), it gives an ideal representation of red oxide primer as seen in the photo's in link.
With the main construction done, it was now time to start painting up, I would'nt describe myself an expert at this, sometimes I learn things as I do them, experimentation etc, so I thought I'd share some of the proven sucessfull basics.
With all the main boat construction complete, it was high time I cleared my workbench of scraps of plastic & put away the offcuts I could use again.
I pinned up my referance photo's in readyness for referance of painting & detailing..,
I started on the outer sides of boat, I wanted to obtain the effect of mattest black possible, various "tester pots" from Wickes DIY stores are ideal for super matt finishes, I used Liquorice in this instance, this matt black will have a topcoat applied of something else in my next update.
Whilst handling to paint up various area's , i wanted to avoid handling other areas such as the outside skin, so i fixed a suitable styrene offcut to the floor, it did'nt need be a strong "welded" bond, as, theres a barrier of primer paint, so the styrene was easily removed without damaging the boat floor, there was no need to re-prime it over, as the floor was later painted with a green/black/brown mix of paint.
I've quite a good selection of modelling paints, both acrylic & enamel based, but sometimes I'll need to mix 2 colours as to obtain a certain shade, in this case I needed a lighter shade of blue, so I'm mixing in a little white to medium blue here, both are Humrol acrylics.
DONT be tempted to mix paints of a different base compound as acrylic , oil/enamel or alcohol* based (*Tamiya) wont mix compatably.
I used a mix of 4 acrylic paints as to colour the inside floor of boat.
I decided to add a tyre to act as a bumper, I've used thick strong sewing thread tied to tyre, I've drilled two 1.6mm holes for which the thread will go in to, then sealed in (plugged) with styrene rods.
I've had to produce my "modellers licence" certificate here, as, the tyre is'nt on the majority of photo's showing boat in poor condition, but a tyre IS fitted on a photo that's after renovation.
Here shows paint detailing loosely based on photo's of real boat.
Portraying a certain level of water inside boat, a ladder was fitted & the boat floor painted, the floor will need a coat of satin varnish applied lastly & allowed to dry overnight, hopefully the varnish I use will not cause the boat structure to warp or react seriously to acrylic paint,
I used Railmatch varnish (enamel or polyurethane based afaik)
In a photo of the real one on BCNS link, there's a discarded wooden pallet as well as other junk.
So for starters, I modified a Peco pallet to portray it weathered & battered,
My photo here is a little blurred, -I could'nt get a decent close-up shot due to poor light/exposure, but I hope you get the general idea.
To be concluded..,
---------- Post added at 02:22 ---------- Previous post was at 02:18 ----------
Next, I gathered some coloured carrier bags, a roll of green cotton mesh, & some crepe paper. These items would be used to make some of the various clutter within boat.
Here's some of the clutter, 2cm x 2cm sections of carrier bag plastic were cut out & folded twice, with a tiny spot of UHU applied to keep them in folded position, these are to represent folded plastic sheeting as seen in photo's below.
Also, theres some orange plastic mesh (the sort used for boundary's on building sites & area's of maintemance),
I decided not to include the sack seen here, but the pallet certainly gets its place as seen in photo's below.
Now was the time to add finishing touches to the posts/bollards for rope anchorage. I did this using finely chopped pieces of 3.2mm styrene rod from evergreen, these were plastic welded on top of the 2mm posts as shown in this photo.
The other end of boat, more half submerged clutter was added including - 2 pieces of rope, an untidily folded sheet of tarpaulin, & more broken lengths of timber.
Using a spare container I made up a mix of peach & white matt acrylic & added approx 40% water, to the sides I chose a brush with flat spread flirted bristles that had gone a little stiff, I applied downward strokes.
A sprinkling of green weathering powder was applied as to represent moss formation & staining.
The Boat is now complete made to look in an abandoned negleted condition
I will post step-by-step stages on how I scratchbuilt my scrapyard grappler crane in my next post.
Cheers,
Dave.